Hiya, I’m back. After shoving sheep in rural Queensland and getting mauled by mozzies on Russell Island it was time to bugger off into less populated areas of Oz.
After getting a new brake master cylinder, meeting another delica owner who had gone through much worse troubles than me and having a last dip in the awesome free pool in the middle of brisbane (check it out, really), I set off onto the highway winding westward.
After creeping up the hill with 40km/h and meeting the friendly neighborhood kangaroo on the way down…
…I had to do a little damage assessment the next morning. Luckily nothing serious, just a dislodged mudflap and a bit of blood splatter on tyre and wheel arches. Other than having to swerve for the occasional suicidal Roo, I quickly grew bored of the winding highway and the rolling hills surrounding it. So I did what I do best…
Straying off the beaten track and getting lost in the hinterland.
After half a day of gravel, floodways and farmsteads I stopped on a crest to give the van and myself some rest. I really see having a blast in a rally car on these roads, even my lumbering colossus of a Delica is (literal) tons of fun on these winding roads already.
Well, next day I met another bus brother at an ancient glacier site. Cracked Windscreen, Roo Bar ripped off, rear windows held in place by tape – whenever the guys on the forums shame me for my ramshackle van, someone else comes around to snatch the title for lemon of the year from me with ease.
Finally, the vegetation grew more sparsely and the hills gave way to seemingly unending plains. Pro Tip: If you failed to pack a mate, at least take some podcasts or audiobooks, after a few days without hearing someone talk your head starts to get… weird. At least for me, music didn’t cut it.
…The friendly neighbourhood cafe was closed too. For the good part of a week I would pass through ghost towns and half-dead steppes. At some point even my car seemed to be infected with the undead vibes of the surroundings, the engine would stop without apparent reason. For some other unknown reason I only tested the fuel supply at that time, disassembled the intercooler and heaved out the batteries to check the fuel filter for built up water or dust. Nothing. I was in some sort of cold desparation with no idea what to do in face of impeding doom. On the worst day I had five engine stops and very little confidence that I would ever find the reason for it. But the next day the engine was running smoothly again and I was even more puzzled. A day after tearing apart my engine bay Dumbass me finally remembered to have a look at the engine air filter (which is easily accessible through four clips). Result: Sandcastle. Why did the engine start working again then? Apparently, the outer sealing rubber had become brittle over the past years (should have been replaced years ago), gave in to the turbo sucking on it and ripped open, delivering fresh, unfiltered air again. Maybe I’ve still got chances to become owner of the lemon of the year after all.
Filter roughly cleaned, seal glued to the filter frame and off we go! I don’t even want to know what a new filter would cost me out here… But judging by lack of vegetation, I was finally closing in on my destination.
Broken Hill. Pilgrimage Spot for weekend Wasteland Warriors…
…and Donkeys.
Mad Max 2 was filmed out here quite some time ago and the local museum about the movie seems to be making a decent profit, but judging by the aging clientele in there (I was the only guy below the age of 50), it’s days are counted.
After a refreshing shower and a chat with a fellow backpacker I set off to finally get back to more hospitable regions.
Well, I still found time for the occasional ruined farm…
and aboriginal cave sanctuary.
There’s even photo evidence of my fashion crimes this time!
I’m in Adelaide now, neglecting museums in favour of ‘live history’
and conquering the suburbs with help of Adelaides free bike hire scheme. Props to the city council for that idea, I really hope other cities take it as an example.
Well, that’s all from me for now. I’ll be sourcing tyres and a new air filter and be off into the dust again within the end of the month if all works out. Fly safe!